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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.